I was warned Screen Door had a long waiting line especially after 6 PM. Now it was slightly after 5 PM and not yet open but the first customer was already waiting. By the time the doors opened at 5:30 PM, the queue was about 20 deep.
It isn't quite what I pictured for a restaurant serving Southern food. Judging solely by the decor, I would have thought this they served slightly upscale American food.
The waiter informed me that this is the one dish everyone has to get. Fried Buttermilk Battered Chicken with mashed potatoes, tasso ham gravy, and collard greens.
The chicken was ultra moist and tender ranking among the best if not the best fried chicken I've had. How the breast meat remained moist is beyond me. It also had just the right amount of spicy kick. The mashed potato was simple, elegant, and perfectly textured with just the right amount of tiny potato bits remaining. The mashed potatoes unbelievably tasted great the day following. The collard greens were vinegary, sweet, and salty. Again another perfect component in this perfect Southern entree.
The Jones Root Beer with cane sugar was $2.75. It was light and refreshing but not worth the asking price.
I can understand why the lines form at Screen Door. They take simple dishes and elevate them to that special level not ordinarily found at this price point of $16. I wish my hometown had a Screen Door. I'd be a regular customer.
Restroom Rating: 7.2
2337 East Burnside Street Portland, OR 97214